Is it worth going to Miller and Carter in Caversham?

Fanfare accompanied the arrival of Miller and Carter in Caversham, with dozens of residents tagging their friends when the Chronicle revealed their opening day on October 7.

As excitement brewed for the steakhouse’ flagship chateaubriand and “excellent” wine list, I visited Kidmore Road to see what all the fuss was about.

First impressions

Miller and Carter in Kidmore Road, Caversham (Image: Miller and Carter)

The first thing you notice about the restaurant is its size. Miller and Carter have taken over the former Caversham Rose, which spreads out across the width of the parking lot.

Yet the dining experience is surprisingly intimate, with the steakhouse taking advantage of the buildings nooks and corners, combined with tasteful partitions.

Candlelight and dark brown wooden and leather furniture make the space feel cozier, though their efforts are somewhat undermined by a carpet which looks as if it were approved by Tim Martin.  

That being said, if you’re spending your evening looking at the floor, you might want to consider dining with better company.

The service

Staff at Miller and Carter, Caversham (Image: Miller and Carter)

Not much more could be asked of our host. She was attentive, happy to answer questions about the food and confidently knew the answers.

She regularly checked on our table and those around us, suggesting the restaurant has hired enough staff for the sizeable number of covers – although we were visiting on a quieter day of the week.

Of note was a bell that hung on the wall next to the kitchen, which our host informed me may be rung if a customer enjoys the food to give the chefs immediate feedback; something that was particularly enjoyed by families with younger children.

The food

According to Miller and Carter, all their head chefs are accredited ‘Masters of Steak’ after attending the companies dedicated Steak School – expectations were high.

And with the cost of living crisis making these treats a rarer occasion for many families in Reading, I did not intend on giving the kitchen much wiggle room when judging the quality of the food residents' will receive in exchange for their hard-earned cash.

But the steak, a 30-day aged, 16OZ ribeye cooked medium-rare, was perfect. Well-seasoned, tender and evenly pink: No blood ran onto the plate as I cut through the centre. I would recommend the Aguaribay Malbec to pair.

There are two minor caveats. At Miller and Carter, every steak comes with a sauce, fries and a wedge of lettuce in dressing. When combined with the fairly salty beef dripping sauce, the seasoning of the steak, which alone was spot-on, worked to its disadvantage. I would recommend that those customers with a palette more sensitive to salt opt for a peppercorn or bearnaise.

The wedge is my second objection. I have never understood the wedge. I thank the Americans for their Texas BBQ and mac ‘n’ cheese, but the wedge they can keep. Despite being offered as an integral part of Miller and Carter’s’ ‘Steak Experience’, it always looks like an afterthought.

Wedge aside, Miller and Carter Caversham is worth it. At £30+ per steak it is a luxury, but due to the ambience, service and quality of the food, you leave feeling as though you have got your money’s worth.