A river runs past it
Alan Bunce • Published 14 Apr 2010 09:00
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FROM posh restaurant to seedy sports bar, Number Two Bridge Street in Caversham has rarely had wide appeal.
Even in its more distant history as a club and a casino, this was never somewhere for the average Caversham type.
Now though, it's taken a Woodley couple to transform it into a venue for the typical bloke from Caversham,
So, with a typical woman from Tilehurst, I spent a Friday night putting to the test the site's latest incarnation, At The River.
New bosses Michelle and Jeremy (pictured below right) have pitched the place between those two recent extremes but kept one important element.
Award-winning Oliver Iles, chef throughout the days of Pimlico restaurant and Sawdey's Sports Bar, is behind the new menu.
I could have happily eaten anything on it, from beer-battered pollock and chunky chips to 21-day hung chargrilled rib eye steak.
But I opted for middle-of-the-road chilli con carne while my guest chose ham, egg and chips.
We learned later the chef prefers more of a challenge but as my guest insisted 'if the simple stuff is good, then you know the rest is'. And is was.
Chilli was side-by-side with the rice instead of the usual plonked-in-the-middle arrangement. It looked good too.
The menu described 'crispy tortilla'. This underplays what are brilliant crispy strips laid over the top. I could have done with a separate bowl full!
Egg and chips lady opposite had a big portion of big chips and they went in a very small amount of time with both eggs and thick-sliced ham.
Desserts: hanky panky pie for me and chocolate mousse for her. Mine had a pot of hot chocolate sauce with it. Superb.
It's hard to explain the pie but chocolate was clearly among many ingredients.
Little was said about the mousse until it was finished. 'Really good' I was eventually told.
Michelle and Jeremy are spot on about the need for pitching At The River in the mid-range.
It has wide appeal and some of the main courses are offered in smaller portions.
Meat is locally sourced, partially because Michelle won't use any from countries where animals are mistreated.
Rarely will you get such a personal touch in a restaurant and nowhere will you get the panoramic river view. If you get the right seat there is nowhere like it. A roof terrace is also in the pipeline.
The task for At The River now is to get its message across to the passers-by. With a public car park near Crowne Plaza, an award-winning chef, spectacular views and an excellent variety of food, the ingredients are all there.
Now it needs the locals to try it for themselves. I doubt they will be disappointed.
Location: 2 Bridge Street, Caversham, RG4 8AA.
Phone: 0118 962 1303 or go to www.theriverbar.co.uk
Open: Every day except Monday. Food served 5-9pm Tues to Friday, noon-3pm & 5-9pm Saturday and noon-3pm Sunday.
Parking: Public car park, opposite side of river.
Average prices: Starters £3.95-£4.95; Paninis, £5.50; Main £6.50-£12.50 (£4.75-£4.95 for small portions); Desserts vary according to selection on chalkboard.
Tip: Go now while there is a 20% off voucher on the website.
This article appeared in Reading Chronicle 08 Apr 10
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