Published: Tuesday, 16th June, 2009 12:30pm

The Bottle and Glass

by Alan Bunce

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The Bottle and Glass

WHILE pub closures have become a feature of the recession, those getting a new lease of life are rare. But Brian Kelly and Gemma MacKenzie have taken over the Bottle & Glass at Binfield Heath, a 400-year-old row of three thatched cottages long since turned into a pub.

Before they took over, the pub displayed a list of things not allowed in the bar, which included children.

The kids stayed out but so did many of their parents.

Now the couple, who get married in July, have begun attracting locals back by being just that - their local.

They began events and quizzes and have a huge garden which will doubtless attract families in summer, and the food will be central to that.

Pan fried wild mushroom on toast is an astonishing starter, enjoyed by Ian, a friend and contact, and resident of Sonning Common who has much experience of the local inns. I began with the excellent soup accompanied by amazing homemade bread.

Main courses were equally good. A homemade burger for me and a steak for Ian. Excellent taste matched by beautiful presentation.

Yet even these were eclipsed by desserts. Old English Lemon Possett tasted fine but next to me arrived the seven pudding special. This has to be tried. It is a miniature version of every other pudding, served on a large wooden board. In all my years of eating food on behalf of Chronicle readers I"ve never been more envious of the other person"s dish.

While The Chronicle these days is of course smaller on the outside and bigger on the inside, the Bottle & Glass is the other way around. The garden is many times bigger than the inside because the listed status doesn"t allow much alteration.

It"s hard to fault the Bottle & Glass. The building is stunning, the welcome fantastic, the food great, the service brilliant and the garden superb. Menus change all the time, produce is local where possible and staff are the best.

If there really is a long hot summer ahead of us, don"t let it pass without taking the family here.