ASCOT has a new treasure. It is the just-launched restaurant FORK, within the Royal Berkshire Hotel, in London Road. A first night can present all manner of little (even major) things that need to be ironed out, yet in this case, the food, wine and service all happened seamlessly, indicating a high level of professionalism with the front of house staff, and in the kitchen.

The restaurant itself is very pleasantly decorated in a palette of pale and stronger greys, silver and natural wood. It makes for a classic-contemporary backdrop for relaxed dining and it is upmarket and chic enough to impress business clients.

The team certainly know their food and wine and a great deal of effort has gone into creating a deceptively simple menu. There are times when you struggle to find something you like from each course. Not so here – the menu follows a format of: to start, to follow, from our grill and to finish. In each section I struggled to find a dish I did not want to try.

With a little guidance from Paul Fearon the general manager, we plumped for English mozzarella with San Marzano tomatoes and ‘pick your own basil’, a really attractive dish matched by the high quality textures and flavours. The duck starter of crispy croquettes, confit duck and spring onion with sweet chilli dip also met with the high expectations of a duck-with-anything fan.

To follow we plumped for royal bream with tarragon and crab risotto and shellfish cream. The portion size was good, though my fellow diner would in retrospect have ordered a side dish of chips – but the fish dish itself was of a star quality rating. The flavours were rich yet subtle, and even after the meal it remains a pleasant memory.

The grilled poussin with bbq sweetcorn, creamed polenta, shallot and herb dressing, provided an unexpected delight. It was off the bone as two little fillets, one breast and one assembled – not something I have ever done, but I imagine that requires a considerable amount of culinary skill.

Desserts offer a traditional to contemporary choice from banoffee – potted banana, banana ice cream and toffee sauce – to contemporary-surreal: a fairground plate of mini toffee apple, doughnuts, ice cream cone, marshmallows, candyfloss, sweet popcorn and dipping sauce.

We plumped for raspberry almond slice with amaretto ice cream and the cheese plate of local Berkshire Spenwood and Barkham Blue, along with Hampshire Tunworth, the freshest, and sweetest garden chutney and fruit loaf.

JUDITH EDWARDS