Published: Thursday, 20th March, 2008 09:00
The Elephant element
By Tom Fahey
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BEING a restaurant reviewer I am in the habit of concentrating my critical eye on restaurants, but it would be hard to pass comment on The Elephant without acknowledging the stunning hotel and busy bar to which this restaurant belongs.
Pangbourne is a beautiful little village with a lot of character and the Elephant fits in very well.
The combination of Oriental opulence and more traditional British elegance is a theme throughout and – like the village - gives the place a real character all its own.
It’s luxurious, but at the same time down to earth.
Before dinner there’s the option of drinks in the bar, where as well as the more usual lagers and spirits you can sample three different Berkshire ales and a huge variety of classic cocktails.
Not your usual quiet hotel bar, there is a real atmosphere here that’s a wonderful counterpoint to the elegant restaurant.
The dining room continues the Oriental/British theme with dark, mahogany furniture, terracotta walls and little elephant statues on each table.
Food is uncomplicated fine dining. Quality ingredients are sourced locally, and sensibly encouraged to speak up for themselves with no more than four elements on a plate. Three courses are excellent value at £30.
After a selection of three homemade breads, starters of rich, glossy, smoked eel, served with sharp horseradish, crisp bacon, and a simple potato salad; and a light, creamy soup which perfectly combined artichokes, celeriac, and lemon so that all flavours shone through individually, were delicious.
Main courses continued the four flavours rule to great effect. Crisp mushroom tart was studded generously with fresh porcini, sat on buttery spinach, topped with a soft poached egg and served with a parmesan cream sauce.
Roast pigeon came with sweet, soft, braised endive, squash puree, and a gorgeous slab of seared foie gras; ingredients so well combined it makes no sense to contemplate eating any element on its own.
Deserts were a highlight. How do you improve carrot cake? Keep the moist sponge then replace the icing with the lightest of mascarpone sorbets, and a deliciously sweet carrot puree. Perfect.
Chocolate mouse was an impossible combination of lightness and density accompanied by a disgracefully rich brownie and a slightly salty but perfectly placed peanut butter ice-cream.
So in summary, unpretentious, well thought out, fine-dining, a busy bar with a great drinks list and a homely hotel combining luxury with real character - each element of The Elephant is a perfect example of what it should be and it’s this combination that makes eating here such a joy.
Where: The Elephant Hotel, Church Road, Pangbourne, RG8 7AR
Phone: 0118 984 2244
Open: From 6pm 7 days
How Much? £30-50
Need to Book? Yes
Other Info: The bar offers a range of great value, home cooked, bistro food
Parking: Pay and display opposite
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