Published: Friday, 7th March, 2008 11:00am

Star attraction

by Tom Fahey

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L'ORTOLAN is not just a restaurant, it's an experience. What's unique about the place is not just the food, the ambience and the service that you'd expect from a Michelin starred restaurant but the fact that everything is so accessible and affordable.

Despite the star, it is not somewhere to feel intimidated by.

The chef, Alan Murchison, has somehow managed to create a visionary fine dining experience which - for a three course lunch with several pre-courses - will set you back only £24 a head. As soon as you even see the food it's immediately apparent what an achievement this is.

The L'Ortolan building is a modern spin on a country house, set in beautiful secluded grounds in semi-rural Shinfield.

One step through the imposing front door, another through the glass behind this and into the expansive hallway, immediately sets up a sense of occasion and grandeur; the friendly, informal greeting that follows puts you right back at ease.

The service at L'Ortolan makes it abundantly clear how much pride the staff take in the dining experience they have created.

Tables are cleaned between courses, food is delivered on huge platters by teams of waiters, the sommelier's knowledge of the wine list is inexhaustible, and the waiters know the food as if they had cooked it themselves.

Lunch begins with a basket of amazing home-made breads which are swiftly followed by the chef's appetiser, a tiny cup of split pea soup with Parma ham and parmesan crumble.

Starters are where the fun really starts and I actually found myself issuing an involuntary laugh at the cleverness of each plate as it arrived.

Goat's cheese fondue is tangy, sweet, crisp and soft all at the same time, and the blend of so many flavours is balanced immaculately. Mosaic of duck is a standout. The variety of flavours and textures all derived from the same bird is quite astounding and a delight to eat.

Butternut squash risotto was delicious and came topped with a "crispy poached egg" which really has to be seen (and tasted) to be believed, and the pork belly main was a perfectly rectangular piece of soft, moist meat with crisp crackling sitting atop a creamy stew of white beans, a smoky, wafer think slice of sausage and bordered by a wonderfully sweet onion puree.

Deserts were just in a different league to anything we could have expected. The chocolate mouse came in a tall, thin, immaculately formed cylinder of white chocolate and was accompanied by raisins soaked in rum and a tart blackcurrant sorbet.

The pain perdu was sat alongside beautifully spiced apples, the creamiest of vanilla ice creams, and a wonderful crème anglaise, managing to be refined and comforting both at the same time.

Overall, I think everyone in Reading should visit L'Ortolan at least once. Alan and his team have created a truly wonderful food experience that it would be a crime for anyone to miss.

And at the lunchtime prices, you don't even need to save up to go.

Where: L'ortolan, Church Lane, Shinfield, Reading, RG2 9BY

Phone: 0118 9888 500

Cost: £30-50 per head for lunch

Open: Tues - Sat noon-2pm

Tues - Thurs 6pm-9.30pm

Fri - Sat 6.45pm-10pm

Need to Book: Yes

Parking: Yes

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