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Published: Tuesday, 11th November, 2008 08:00

London Street Brasserie reviewed

By James Kell

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London Street Brasserie

Pic by: Taline Jones

LONDON Street Brasserie may not be in everybody’s price range, but from the moment you walk through the door, it is clear you get what you pay for.

Originally a toll-house for traffic entering Reading over Duke Street bridge, the building is in a fine location, overlooking the River Kennett, and opened in its current guise in 2000.

Inside, the atmosphere is relaxed in a way it can only be when everyone knows exactly what they are doing – and that’s just the impression you get from each member of staff, no matter how busy the restaurant.

Then there’s the food. In a word: sublime.

The baked goats’ cheese and asparagus salad starter was simple but delightful, with pear adding a note of sweetness.

My companion enjoyed seared scallops, which I am told were cooked absolutely perfectly.

Looking around on a typical weekday evening, sat at the tables are couples, business people and groups of friends, all engaged in conversation, with the space between the tables creating a mood that is intimate, discrete, but not at all stuffy.

On to the main course, pan-fried sea bass with Mediterranean vegetables.

The fish just fell from the knife, complemented by the vegetables rich in tomato and garlic.

My companion had pink-carved fillet of venison with haggis mash, green beans, fig compôte and redcurrant jus, which proved a big hit.

The knowledgeable staff were able to advise us on a wine to best suit our choices.

For dessert we both enjoyed a luxurious sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce and clotted cream, which despite the description, stayed just on the right side of decadent.

There are not many places in Reading that offer this kind of central location, with such quality of service and dedication to great contemporary food.

Where: London Street, Reading.

Telephone: 0118 950 0536.

How much: Main courses from £16, set menu available.

Opening times: Noon to 10.30pm all week.

Need to book: Yes.

Parking: None.

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