Published: Thursday, 8th May, 2008 08:00
Words fail me!
By Tom Fahey
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SITTING right on the banks of the Thames, a few minutes’ drive from Goring, The Leatherne Bottel occupies a stunning location.
The interior is elegant with low ceilings and exposed beams, a beautiful grand piano, and pristine cleanliness; the river views making everything that extra bit special.
The food is down-to-earth fine dining prepared with genuine and honest passion by Julia and John, who share chef’s duties.
You really can see and taste the sheer level of effort that has gone into this food whether it’s on the tasting, al la carte or lunch menus.
Before you’ve even reached the table, at the John Madejski-owned restaurant, expect an astounding range of miniaturised one-bite appetisers – beetroot tart, scallop tartar, tuna carpaccio, crab balls – all completely fascinating and delicious.
At the table things kick off with a simple but powerful shellfish and saffron broth and a sweet roasted pepper and basil soup with a choice of four breads, all expertly made on the premises.
Starters of pigeon breast with foie gras and grapefruit salsa, and halloumi cheese with broad beans and mustard worked on every level, with very original ingredient combinations seamlessly brought together.
Scallops with crisp pancetta, cauliflower and trompette mushrooms were excellent, but for us the garden salad was a highlight.
A simple bowl of dressed leaves and edible flowers that we watched Julia collect from her garden. It’s a fascinating dish with an unmatched freshness that you are not going to get anywhere else.
Sea bass accompanied by crab risotto was perfectly cooked and served with chilli jam, which cut the richness nicely; and for a dish improvised that evening, the wonderfully sweet beetroot and fig tart tatin was a major achievement.
Main course of venison saddle was immaculately tender and served with the smoothest of potato purees and peppery, creamed leeks. Mushroom risotto was a perfect example of the same with a massive variety of mushrooms and just a hint of lemon to bring out the flavour.
A selection of excellent, well-described cheeses followed, and a perfectly sweet, creamy, lemon tart with raspberry sorbet ended the meal on a clean, light note.
Restaurant reviewing keeps getting harder. I visit one place, it’s amazing, and I urge everyone to eat there. I visit the next one, it’s even better and I find myself running out of convincing expletives.
The Leatherne Bottel is foodie heaven and a very special place to eat. It’s hard to get across just how good it is in print, so I urge you to try it for yourself.
Tom Fahey
Where? The Leatherne Bottel, Goring, RG8 OHS
Telephone: 01491 872 667
Open: 12-2 and 7 – 9 weekdays
Saturday 12-2.30 and 7-9.30
Sunday 12-2.30
How Much? £25-100 per person depending on when you go and what you order!
Need to Book? Yes
Parking: Lots!
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