Reading Chronicle | The Guide | Curtain up on super supper

Saturday, 17th May, 2008

Published: Thursday, 1st May, 2008 07:20

Curtain up on super supper

By Tom Fahey

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Colleys’ theatrical Victorian suppers, with their traditional British puddings and roast dinners, have made the restaurant something of an institution in Reading, but what’s most refreshing is to see just how much the place has moved with the times.

A fair proportion of the menu is now rather light and delicate, and the more formal aspects of the theatrics have been replaced by a relaxed, friendly style of service.

Inside, Colleys is straight out of the Orient Express. Generally purple, floral, décor is other worldly and superbly original.

There are no menus, with dishes actually displayed at your table before you order. It’s a brilliant idea, adds drama to the evening and prevents anyone being disappointed with their choice of food.

The new lighter theme to the food is heralded by a starter of gravlax (marinated salmon) and fluffy scrambled eggs in a beautifully buttery pastry case accompanied by pea shoots and a drizzle of truffle oil.

The soup course is great, with a whole tureen of creamy, pure white cauliflower soup topped with curry oil accompanied by a selection of homemade breads. It’s a smooth, elegant soup, and the tureen and ladles are more pure theatre.

Main courses include a roast shoulder of lamb accompanied with good old mashed potatoes and a red wine sauce; soft, poached chicken breast on a creamy, salty pea and bacon risotto; and finally a moist fillet of smoked haddock sat atop a potato cake, set off with a poached egg and a cheese sauce.

Colleys excels at desserts and, yes, if you finish the first, you can have seconds!

The syrup sponge is a classic example of a classic pudding, has a very generous amount of syrup and clings suitably to the ribs. Honey pannacotta is soft, delicate and has just the right level of wobble.

Chocolate tart is rich, extremely chocolatey, and balanced by light hazelnut ice-cream. Pineapple parfait is smooth, sweet and tangy, and topped with a light foaming coconut sabayon.

Colleys is immensely original; it’s great fun, and the food leaves you feeling well fed but not too full.

The dishes are uncomplicated, there’s something for everyone, and none of the food is going to confuse or baffle you.

You see everything before you order it, there are eight desserts, of which you can have two, and the whole thing only costs £25 a head.

Just remember to leave room for the desserts.

Tom Fahey

Where: 21 Wokingham Road,

Reading, Berkshire

RG6 1LE

Tel: 0118 966 4221

Parking: plenty of space in surrounding roads

Book: Yes, you have to

Open: Dinner starts at 7.30pm and ends at 11pm