Reading Chronicle | The Guide | Branch out at the Tree

Saturday, 5th July, 2008

Published: Thursday, 24th April, 2008 06:55

Branch out at the Tree

By Alan Bunce

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IN JANUARY, locals in Mortimer got their first glimpse of what had become of a popular pub.

What had been the Fox and Hounds is now pulling in the crowds as a Bangladeshi and Indian restaurant, The Cinnamon Tree. Indeed, customers now travel there from as far as Reading and Basingstoke.

Owner Kuti Meeh had come to the UK from Bangladesh in 1976 as a business studies student. He has since worked in kitchens and has run businesses.

These days he owns a restaurant in Kent and, along with business partner Ronui, another in Winkfield. The Cinnamon Tree is his third.

Like any good conversion, the building has style and history. On entry you approach what clearly had previously been a bar. Nowadays, rather than ask for your pint, you ask for a table. And there are plenty, laid out over an extensive ground floor and an upstairs room.

We began with three starters between two of us. The shashlick chicken in particular, must be tried – barbecued pieces on onions, tomatoes and peppers. Almost too good for a starter.

Jhinga suka (king prawns in sweet and sour sauce) is tasty and not too heavy. Sheek kebab is four pieces of minced lamb on a salad – a starter for those with big appetites.

We took advice on the main dishes. For my mate, Viceroy Grill Massala – barbecued lamb, chicken, duck and kebabs in a special sauce. For me, lamb rezalla, marinated in spices and cooked with yoghurt, cream, butter and chilli sauce.

Side orders of kobi sag, (spinach and cauliflower) and deresh massala (fresh okra) and naans completed the indulgence.

Both curries were a world above the average. We had managed to get a plate of coconut rice, which was not on the menu, and another of mushroom rice. There was more than enough of each. If only I had the capacity to eat more.

The quality of the food was exemplary. Service similarly lavish. Not only can staff (for us, manager Sharif and Chapal) advise on curry, they have freedom to have personalities. One family group in a roomy corner ended the evening dancing to Indian music with the waiters.

The Cinnamon Tree takes the UK-based Indian restaurant to a new level. The Indian restaurant used to be the place to go after the pub. Now it’s the place to go instead of the pub.

No coincidence The Cinnamon Tree thrives where the Fox and Hounds used to.

Where: The Street, Mortimer

Telephone: 0118 933 2428

How much: Main dishes £7.50 - £11.95.

Opening times: 12pm - 2.30pm and 6pm - 11pm every day.

Need to book? Advisable.

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